Puglia or Bust

Published in Sky magazine | By Adam Platt

Long ago, I promised myself that I would take a biking trip through some obscure corridor of Europe, going in-depth over a small region rather than covering hundreds of miles a day. (You’ve heard of “slow food,” this is the travel equivalent.)

Planning a great trip is a part-time job. The more you put in, the more you get back. I wanted the ultimate vacation: to put in nothing and travel like I’d studied for months. And I wanted a destination I’d never seen. Tuscany, Provence, the Loire Valley or Italian Riviera would not cut it.

Over and over I read about one destination I had never come near: Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot. A region of wild coastline, olive groves and ancient cities, not yet scrubbed clean by the tourist hordes. The Italy of Italians, not German and British second-homers.

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