Longtime B&R guide and researcher Thilo Erhardt has a unique way of not just seeing the world, but of expressing his ideas. As a child he grew up around the Mediterranean and today he returns whenever possible. Guiding isn’t Thilo’s only pursuit—not by a long shot. In fact he is an economist with a passion for history who has guest lectured at Johns Hopkins University, while also counting stints at the World Bank and the European Space Agency among his many professional experiences. Here, Thilo shares his impressions of Jordan with us, a country that has clearly cast a spell upon him.

In the Beginning There Was… Jordan.

Typically, the best way to prepare for a journey is to delve into books about a destination, something I made a point of once I knew I would be travelling to Jordan. I read the epic Seven Pillars of Wisdom by T.E. Lawrence (“Lawrence of Arabia”), Burkhard’s adventurous diaries on how he rediscovered Petra 200 years ago, and My Life With a Bedouin gave me the day to day picture. I even read the tales of One Thousand and One Nights. And so I arrived in Amman, excited and feeling prepared for my journey ahead. I couldn’t have been more wrong!

It did not take me long to realize that Jordan would be different, for its beauty is not of the kind that lingers peacefully in the imagination. Rather, it literally grabs you and shakes you from your consciousness. There is Jerash, for example, one of the most well preserved Roman cities with its Cardio, the 5th avenue of antiquity, and its towering columns. The Greek temples of Zeus, Hadrian’s arch facing east towards Persia, Rome’s arch-nemesis, as well as the rising sun. Close your eyes and you hear the footsteps on the large stones around the Agora. In short, Jerash makes Pompeii look like a suburb of Chicago.

Then there is Mount Nebo, the place where Moses saw the Promised Land and, indeed, the place where he died. What a view! On the Dead Sea, the laws of gravity are rewritten. Over to El Maghtas, the lush green arm of the river Jordan where Saint John baptized Jesus. Further along is Mukawir, the lonely hill perched in a cloud where King Herod’s castle resided and where St John lost his head after Salomé did her infamous dance. In nearby Saint Georges’ church in Madaba resides the oldest known map in the world…

From antiquity to natural beauty, Jordan has it all. The next stop, Dana National Park, should have been called Eden as its diversity reflects a perfect world. Its wide canyons gradually narrow and lead down to the Dead Sea, complete of course with a Crusader Castle.

And here the geography changes dramatically. Enormous ochre colored boulders now rise from the ground and like immense mushrooms they grow in groupings of two, three and sometimes four. We approach Petra, once home of the Nabateans, a well-developed civilization, which died out 1,600 years ago. This ancient city attracted skilled craftsmen and artists who transformed the golden limestone into the most formidable temples and graves of which the treasury and the monastery are just the tip of the iceberg.

From Petra to Wadi Rum, also known as the Valley of the Moon—how fitting a name for this magical place. Majestic cliffs touch the skies while small canyons hide 3,000 year-old rock paintings. The fading sun tinges the quiet Wadi with golden colours and as night falls, it is not the darkness that envelopes us for the stars here shine brighter than anywhere else in the world. Is this Ali Baba’s cavern?

Our journey ends with white sand underfoot in the quiet port of Aqaba where, we have to time to digest the countless images and sensations that this trip through Jordan leaves you with.

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We’re quite certain Thilo has much more to offer on this front. So, are you prepared for a trip that mingles the enchantments of antiquity, a legendary history and a landscape of remarkable diversity that will live on in your imagination forever—all amidst the classic comforts that distinguish a Butterfield & Robinson adventure? Let us plan an unforgettable Jordan trip for you.



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