February 17 - 22, 2009 

"If we go on the way we have, the fault is our greed and if we are not willing to change, we will
disappear from the face of the globe, to be replaced by the insect."
Jacques Cousteau, ecologist, explorer and filmmaker, from a 1971 interview

The largest river in the world by volume, the Amazon River holds an estimated 20 per cent of our planet's supply of fresh water. Beginning deep in the moutainous heart of the Peruvian Andes, its tributaries drain six South American nations before emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Belem, Brazil. Surrounded by rainforest, the Amazon basin is home to an incredible concentration of freshwater wildlife, including as many as 3,000 species of fish. And although humans inhabit only a small fraction of its 6,280-km (3,900-mi.) length, our impact is being felt: oil exploration, deforestation, encroaching agriculture, mining runoff and untreated sewage are changing the face and force of this vital waterway, and fast.

 

To explore the dense, impenetrable and--many say--imperiled Amazon rainforest, we begin in Peru. It is the logical place; the river of the same name has its source here, and offers up a more intimate and wilder means of accessing the jungle than anywhere else. Indeed, Iquitos has not changed much since Werner Herzog filmed his epics, Aguirre and Fitzcarraldo, and his producer still holds court in the bustling frontier town. To witness the pace here is a fitting start to our adventure: the people live by the bounty of the Amazon, rushing to load and unload massive bunches of bananas, exotic fruits, huge unrecognizable river fish, and the necessary hardware for bush camps.

The contrast with our shipboard experience could not be greater. As we glide silently along secret waterways on the M/V Aqua or its comfortable skiffs, a lush green world comes to life around us. Our guides and naturalists isolate and identify the creatures we need time--even with binoculars--to spot. Sloths, howler monkeys, pink and grey dolphins, and iridescent exotic birds welcome us to this very loud, wild world. Our end point, the Pacaya-Samiria reserve, is as remote and pristine as the entire Amazon once was.

Over the course of our journey, your personal explorations will be complemented by on-board presentations and stimulating discussions. We'll learn just how high the stakes are as the great basin--the so-called 'lungs of the Earth'--adjusts to oil and gas exploration, logging (both legal and illegal), farming and population incursions. We'll visit areas of unblemished splendour, but also encounter places and cultures that have been altered, sometimes beyond repair. And we'll discover a vast storehouse of indigenous knowledge and ancient socieites, plant and animal life of staggering complexity and amplitude. We'll leave richer for our exposure to both natural beauty and human industry, and our awareness of the delicate balance between the two.

Dominic Giossan and Jean-Louis Doss (both former lawyers, coincidentally) have spent the past decade racking up tens of thousands of kilometres crafting B&R trips around the world. From By Sea journeys to exotic Bespoke adventures, they've done it all. Having seen so much of our planet, they are both thrilled to be a part of the Destinations at Risk program and hope to build awareness of its most endangered corners.

February 16 - Introductions in Lima
We meet at Lima's Ramada Airport Inn for a pre-trip drink and orientation with your B&R guide, guest hosts George and Martha Butterfield, and on-trip expert Celine Cousteau. (Please note that this first night's hotel accommodations are not included in your trip price.)

February 17 - Rio Corrientes
A morning flight takes us from Lima to Iquitos, Peru's gateway to the Amazon. From the air, we'll catch glimpses of the large-scale logging and oil-extraction operations that dot the landscape. Upon touchdown, we'll enjoy lunch en route to the seaplane terminal on the riverfront, then embark on a flight to Rio Corrientes, a remote outpost servicing two villages of the Achuar culture. Known as "the people of the aguaje palm," the Achuar have a long and difficult history with the rubber tappers, land speculators, lumber cutters and oil companies that work in the area. Along with an aid worker, we'll speak with the villagers (via an interpreter), visit their homes and learn about the issues they face.

Late in the afternoon, we'll fly on to Nauta for refreshments with Yvan Vasquez Valera, Governor of Peru's Loreto province, who will address the challenges and opportunities facing the Amazon from a political perspective. By 8pm, we will be aboard the M/V Aqua, heading upriver for the remote reaches of the headwaters.

February 18-20 - Afloat on the Mighty Amazon
Over the next three days, we'll immerse ourselves in the mystique of the Amazon aboard the Aqua and motorized skiffs with our excellent local guides. The plants, birds and animals of the Cayali River, Hatum Posa Lake, Pacaya Samiria and Puinahua will be ours to discover. We will have the opportunity to visit some outposts and remote side channels. In the evenings, Celine will share stories and photos from her past expeditions and medical missions in the region, and we'll engage in some after-dark exploration while experiencing the intoxicating cacophony of the jungle at night.

February 21 - Iquitos
Back in Iquitos, we'll take the skiffs to Belen Market, a staging area for jungle missions and a transition point for produce, plants, animals, lumber and handicrafts headed for distant ports. Next, we'll jump aboard Iquitos' venerable moto-taxis to visit a variety of tropical sites, including a butterfly farm, lumber yards, and a manatee rescue centre, all in the company of a local guide.

In the evening, we'll check into the El Dorado Plaza Hotel in the town centre with a few hours to relax and explore before dinner. Tonight's meal will feature guest speaker Pepe Alvarez, a former Catholic missionary who left the church to become an environmentalist, ornithologist and political activist for the indigenous people. You'll have plenty of chances to ask him questions during our dinner together.

February 22 - Lima Roundtable and Onward Travel
After an early flight back to Lima, we'll head into the city for a short tour and lunch at one of Lima's better restaurants. Joining our table will be several guest experts with differing perspectives on the Amazon: an environmentalist, an energy industry representative, a scientist, and a federal government spokesperson. The roundtable discussion will be followed by a Q&A session covering the threats and opportunities facing the region.

After lunch, we will return you to the Ramada to rest up before your trip home. You may also choose to stay downtown for a few more hours instead--we will arrange to return you to the hotel and airport later in the day to make your connections home.

Download a copy of the complete itinerary for this trip here.

For more information or to book your place aboard the Aqua, contact Kathy Stewart at 1.866.902.8977 or your preferred travel professional.

George Butterfield
A lifelong traveller, philanthropist and co-founder of Butterfield & Robinson, George developed the Destinations at Risk concept as a means to combine his love of travel with his passion for environmental awareness and conservation.

Martha Butterfield
A co-founder of Butterfield & Robinson, Martha is an active supporter of environmental and cultural advocacy groups worldwide. She has extensive personal experience in South America as a researcher and documentary filmmaker.

Celine Cousteau
Granddaughter of the legendary oceanographer Jacques, filmmaker, educational ambassador and "oceanaut" Celine Cousteau is dedicated to heightening global awareness of our planet's delicate ecosystems.

Dominic Giossan
A veteran B&R guide who's led trips to far-flung destinations in Europe, Asia and South America, Dominic is a polyglot and vagabond extraordinaire with keen insights into South American politics and culture.