Welcome to The Slow Road, a B&R travel chronicle consisting of “postcards”
from our guides and Regional Directors; the unveiling of new trips crafted by the
most creative trip designers on the planet; personal accounts from our travellers
as they see the world others miss; and all the latest and greatest travel news from
B&R.
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September 09, 2010
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August 04, 2010
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July 07, 2010
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June 02, 2010
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May 05, 2010
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April 07, 2010
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March 03, 2010
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February 03, 2010
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January 06, 2010
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December 02, 2009
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November 04, 2009
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October 08, 2009
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September 03, 2009
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August 06, 2009
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July 23, 2009
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July 09, 2009
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June 25, 2009
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June 11, 2009
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May 28, 2009
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May 14, 2009
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April 30, 2009
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April 02, 2009
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48 Hours in... Vancouver
Tranquility Base: Vancouver’s Pacific Playground
Lots of cities claim to welcome the world, but few can match the hospitable welcome Vancouver, British Columbia provides her visitors. A Pacific seaport with a laidback allure, it collects cultures and ethnicities from almost all of the world’s corners, then comingles them in neighbourhoods at once unique and familiar. Nestled snugly between ocean and mountains, the city has managed to grow without overwhelming its beauteous surroundings or sacrificing its comforting come-as-you-are atmosphere. As the host city of the 2010 Winter Olympics, Vancouver is destined to be in the spotlight often this year. Fortunately, this drop-dead gorgeous town is more than ready for its close-up.
Vancouver: Planet Food
Vancouver’s diverse ethnic population makes for some particularly exotic dining experiences. Jab your finger randomly at the globe and you’ll probably find an eatery representing the country you landed on here. Do it again and you’ll more than likely find a fusion joint that combines your first selection with your second!
Among the yoga studios and trendy eateries of Kitsilano on the city’s West Side sits Epicurean (1891 West 1st Ave.), a classically Italian café famed for its homespun fare, relaxed attitude and lovely patio. Literally steps away from Kitsilano Beach, a popular summer sunning spot, it’s a great place to pop into for a late breakfast before strolling the surrounding streets’ boutiques.
Food fetishists will love the view at nearby Fuel (1944 West 4th Ave.), an eatery that makes the preparation part of the experience. Led by Robert Belchman, a former Canadian Chef of the year, the staff work in full view of the patrons in an exposed kitchen environment. Dinner and a show, indeed.
Over by BC Place stadium is Chambar (562 Beatty St.), one of Vancouver’s best-loved fine-dining establishments. The menu is Belgian and the atmosphere urbane, but the mussels are big and homegrown. Try these world-famous mollusks or mix things up with the wide variety of tapas plates available here.
“Chic” and “sexy” are the watchwords of choice at Hapa Izakaya (1479 Robson St.) in the West End, a Tokyo-centric spot currently poised on the cutting edge of next-wave Japanese cuisine. Styled like an izakaya bar (where Japanese salarymen congregate for post-work sakes and nibbles), the Hapa forgoes sushi and traditional tempura in favour of “tapanese”—Japanese tapas.
But not all of the culinary fun involves a full-course meal. Thomas Haas (128-998 Harbourside Dr.) in North Vancouver offers handmade truffles, fruit jellies and chocolates of all shapes and sizes for the serious sweet-tooth. A cozy little spot, it’s a great place to curl up with a book and a mug of freshly-brewed hot chocolate for an hour or two. Wine, cheese and cured meats beckon at the Salt Tasting Room (46 Water St.), an exquisitely designed charcuterie located in historic Gastown. Picnickers shouldn’t miss the Granville Island Public Market, Vancouver’s nexus of gastronomic delights. Produce of all kinds—from seasonal berries to Japanese eggplant—is on display here seven days a week. Hardcore foodies should take advantage of the guided tours.
Need to sit for a spell after a long day of shopping on Robson, the city’s main drag? Then treat yourself to high tea at the Wedgewood Hotel’s Bacchus Lounge (845 Hornby St.). Authenticity and quality are paramount here, as those who’ve sampled the scrumptious scones and clotted cream can attest.
A Greenie’s Dream
Nature is omnipresent and inescapable in and around Vancouver, and convenient access to the outdoors is one of the many plusses in what is frequently ranked as Canada’s most livable city. A few points of interest beyond the city limits are the famed Capilano Suspension Bridge—easily one of the most photographed places in all of B.C.—in the Capilano River Regional Park, and Grouse Mountain, home to exceptional gondola-assisted views, the delightful mountaintop Grouse Nest restaurant and a grizzly bear preserve.
If you’re feeling active, consider renting a double kayak and paddling around English Bay. The reward, apart from some good exercise, is an astounding view of the picturesque cityscape.
Stanley Park, an oasis of verdant tranquility in the midst of a thriving metropolis, is another can’t-miss destination for nature lovers. The 1,000+ acres of fir, hemlock and cedar forest are crisscrossed with miles of well-maintained bike paths, and there’s always some sort of cultural event taking place under the park’s leafy green big-top. For a good active day out, rent a bike and ride the 10km seawall. Stanley Park is also home to the Vancouver Aquarium, one of North America’s largest underwater zoos. With over 8,000 aquatic animals from all over the world, it’s a definite must-visit if you’re travelling with children, as is Science World British Columbia (1455 Quebec St.), a superfun edutainment complex.
Even the heart of downtown, concrete-grey and asphalt-black give way to fresh, revitalizing all-natural green. The Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden (578 Carrall St.), the only full-size garden of its kind outside of China, is an urban sanctuary of serenity smack dab in the middle of Vancouver’s bustling Chinatown (the second largest in North America, next to San Francisco, by the way). Relaxation is taken very seriously here: every inch of the garden has been meticulously planned, and each plant, rock and architectural piece has been carefully chosen for its symbolic meaning and mood.
In a way, the Garden is a microcosm of Vancouver itself: a seamless synthesis of divergent parts drawn together into a single, cohesive and harmonious whole. After just a short visit, you begin to understand the unique magic of this city on the Pacific. Everything, no matter where it comes from, fits in perfectly—you included.
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